Method of making shoes



mmh 23 9 13926 J. F. GSELL METHOD oF MAKING SHOES Patented Mar. Z3, 1926.

, UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JULIUS F. GSELL, 0F JERSEYVILLE, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR, :BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS,

TO INTERNATIONAL SHOE COMPANY, 0F ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE.

METHoD or MAKING sHoEs.

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, JULTUS F. GSELL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Jerseyville, Jersey County, Illinois, have invent-ed a new and useful Method of Making Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a method of making shoes, and particularly to a new method for making a shoe comprising a middle sole composed of an inner sole and welt formed from a single piece of material, with novel means for securing the lining and the edge of the upper to said sole.

An object of the invention is to provide a novel method that results in a substantial reduction in the amount of labor in the production of the shoe and at the same time provides a method resulting in a shoe in which the middle sole is securely connected with the upper and the lining therefor to prevent the pulling away of these parts from the sole and leaving a welt free from stitches, whereby the outer sole may be connected to the same.

Additional advantages of the method will be apparent from the following detailed description thereof, taken in connection wlth the accompanyingdrawing in which- Fig. 1 illustrates a cross section showlng the last with a middle sole secured thereto arranged to receive the lining for the upper.

Fig. 2 is a cross section of the same part with the upper and lining secured in place on the last.

Fig. 3 representes the same parts after the lining and upper have'been secured thereto.

Fig. 4 illustrates the same parts with the addition of the outer sole.

Fig. 5 is a bottom view of the shoe before the outer sole is attached thereto. y

Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the shoe in the same stage of the construction shown in Fig. 5. n

In practicing the method the middle sole, comprising the insole 1 and the welt extension 2, is formed from one piece by channelling out the margin thereof forming the channel 3 having a short bottom wall 4 and a flap that constitutes the welt extension 2. The insole is then secured-to a last L and the welt extension 2 turned over as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. The marginal edge of the lining 5 is then fitted in place in the channel 3, and the end thereof extending part way along the inner wall of the welt extension 2. The upper 6 is then drawn over the last, the marginal edge thereof being seated over the edge of the margin of the lining and the extremity of the margin of the upper turned over the inner sole welt extension 2. The lining and the upper are secured in this position to the last by lasting tacks 7 it being understood that an additional series of lasting tacks 7 serve to hold the middle sole securely in position on the last. After the parts have been assembled as described, the lining and upper 6 are stitched by a row of machine stitching 8 entering at an upwardly inclined angle and passing through the upper, the lining and the middle sole at a point substantially at the base of the channel 3.

It has been the practice heretofore, in forming the connection between the lining and the edge of the upper with the middle sole, to first setup the parts on the last, then remove the lasting tacks holding the upper in place, relasting the lining and separately securing the lining -to the middle sole, and then relasting the upper and stitching the upper through the welt extension of the inner sole. i

The present practice avoids these separate steps and with one stitching operation secures the upper, the lining and the middle sole together, by passing a. stitch through the middle sole at a point where it avoids perforating the welt extension proper thereof, thus saving considerable labor and at the same time leaving the welt extension free from perforations for stitching the same to the outer sole.

After the method has progressed to the point illustrated in Fig. 2, all of the lasting tacks are removed and the welt extension 2 of the inner sole turned back to the position illustrated in Fig. 3. The shoe is now ready to receive the outer sole 9 and the welt strip 11 which are secured to the welt extension 2 of the inner sole by passing a row of stitching 10 through said parts after they have been placed so that the outer sole covers the lower side of .the stitches 10 and the welt strip 11 covers the upper side of said stitches. .K

The product of the method described results in a shoe of very substantial construcby `securing the marginal edge of the upper and also of the lining by a single row of stitching, a close union is provided between both of these elements and the middle sole,

` preventing the lining from pulling out of place and resulting in' a smooth nish of the inner part of the shoe, as the lining is anchored securely in position in place in the channel 3 formed in the middle sole.

It is therefore apparent that the foregoing method fully accomplishesthe purposes set forth in the specification, and that it has many advantages over known methods of manufacture of shoes of this type.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. The method of manufacturing shoes, which consists in forming a middle sole of a single piece of material and channeling out the marginal edge thereof to form separated Walls, one of which constitutes a welt extension beyond the marginal edge of the other; securing the sole to a last, assembling in connection with said sole a lining and an upper with the marginal edges thereof turned inwardly into said channel at opposite sides of the last and outwardly against the welt extension; turning back the welt extension and the marginal edges. of the lining and upper; passing a single row of stitches upwardly at an angle through the upper, the lining and through the middle sole adjacent to said welt extension while said parts are turned inwardly; and then turning said parts outwardly and securing the outer sole and a welt strip to said welt extension.

2. The method of manufacturing shoes, which consists in channeling out the side edges of a middle sole composed of a single piece of material to form separate Walls, one of which is wider than the other providing a welt extension of the middle sole; securing said middle sole to a last; assembling in connection with said middle sole a lining and any upper with the marginal edges thereof turned inwardly into said channel at opposite sides of the last and outwardly against said welt extension, the marginal edge of the lining terminating beyond the channel and short of the marginal edge of the welt extension and of the upper; passing a row of stitches obliquely through the wa-ll at the base of the channel, said stitches securing the upper and the lining in said channel; placing the outer sole against the bottom surface of the middle sole; placing a welt strip upon the outwardlyvturned margin of said upper and stitching said parts together.

3. The method of manufacturing shoes, which consists in channeling a middle sole at its marginal edge to form separate walls, one of which comprises a welt extension; securing the middle sole to a last; lasting in connection with said middle sole an upper and a lining; turning back the marginal edge of said welt extension, the lining and the upper; and passing a row of stitches through said parts while turned back; turning said parts outwardly; and securing a sole thereto.

JULIUS F. GSELL. 

